Here is my July workshop that I have written as a tutorial.
I did not end up doing anything at all to do with continuous prairie points!
I will save that for another time.
I am posting the tutorial here and also as a pdf download in google docs which you can get to by clicking on the link on the right under Tutorials.
The dimensions I used to make the envelope / purse you see pictured are 71/2" x 12"
Scrappy Envelope / Purse Materials:
A rectangular scrap of wool wadding or iron on pellon
A rectangular piece of fabric the same size as your wadding / pellon
Scraps of your favourite fabrics in assorted sizes & shapes
- Include some selvedge or ribbon & lace to add some interest / texture
2 buttons – as this is a scrappy project I like to use 2 mismatched buttons.
Sewing Machine & Iron
Rotary Cutter, mat and ruler (optional)
Directions:
1. If using iron on pellon – iron to the wrong side of your lining piece now.
I also like to iron my non iron on wadding together with my lining piece as I find that it helps to keep them together a little and nice and flat and neat ready to sew onto.
2. Find a scrap of fabric that is equal to the width of the Base. If you like you can sew 2 or more pieces together to make one piece the right size. It will need to be about 2 “ in length by the width of the Base.
Lay your scrap piece that is 2” by the width of your Base right sides together with the Base to one end, so the fabrics are right sides together and the wadding is on the bottom.
Sew (using your machine) straight stitch across through all layers.
Turn back and press then top stitch ¼” along the edge.
Using your favourite scraps completely cover the rest of the Base, now layering over the wadding. Overlap your scraps for good coverage and a better finish. I like to iron them in place so I get a good idea of how they will look and so they are nice and flat ready to sew.
4. Set your machine to zigzag stitch and sew around the edge of all your scraps, leaving where they meet the edge of the Base as you will zigzag the edge of the whole piece later.
You might like to think this stage through a bit to make sure you do not have to go over the same area more than once, as this is a quilt as you go project you will see the stitching on the inside so it does look better if you have not zigzagged over the same spot a few times!
Trim your ends, especially on the lining side as they are more difficult to get to once we have sewn the fold up.
5. Now neaten up your edges. I use my rotary cutter and ruler for this bit and make sure the top and bottom equal the same and also the sides equal the same measurement.
6. Fold you Base into thirds so the straight top stitched edge is in the centre. fold the top third back and press the top stitched third down, this is the inside pocket of your envelope purse.
7. Starting at the bottom left corner zigzag stitch around the rest of the raw edges. You are stitching through all layers now. When you get to the middle where the top stitched edge is go back and forth to reinforce the join before continuing on the rest of the way around – don’t forget to do the same bit of reverse for a few stitches at the join on the other side.
I I do this bit of reinforcing at the join because this is where the most strain on the envelope / purse will be.
8. As you go around the raw edge take care to get this neat as this will be visible on your finished envelope / purse. I do my zigzagging just in a little bit from the edge so it doesn’t get all puckered and look messy.
Finish off the zigzag stitch in the adjacent corner from where you began.
9. Fold down the outer fold of the envelope and press.
10. Button holes
Firstly choose your buttons. I like to do 2 but this is up to you as 1 will work just as well. As this is a scrappy project you might like to consider 2 mismatched buttons.
Measure your buttons to see what size button hole to make. I do this by wrapping a piece of ribbon around the button and pinning it in place firmly. Remove the button, and keeping the pin in place, measure the distance from the pin to the fold of the ribbon – this is how long your button hole should be.
Remember if you are using mismatched buttons to measure both of your buttons.
Choose an appropriate position for the button holes, I usually place mine about 1/2” in from the edge and go in from the side edge until it looks right.
Sew then open your button holes.
11. When you have made your button holes you can sew on your buttons ( by hand ) and
· If you are really put off from doing button holes you could try a different sort of closure, Velcro, press stud, magnetic closure whatever you like. I like to do the button holes as it is great practice to do them on a scrappy project where it doesn’t matter if you get them a little bit out of line or the wrong size or something.
